We started at Pimisi Bay, half way between North Bay and the town of
Mattawa, and thus were within a few hours' reach of the Mattawa's highlights: two
beautiful water falls (Talon and Paresseux) and the Porte d'Enfer, an ancient Native ochre
mine. We then proceeded down the river past the benign riffles of the Epingles and carried
across the Portage des Roches, careful not to trip, just like the ancient canoe crews with
their huge loads had done for centuries. We made camp for a few days upstream of the
Campion Rapids (taking advantage of the road access to the river in order to attend a
wedding in Ottawa) and then two of our group stayed put while the others attended the
wedding.
The Mattawa in this section shows its origin in a major geological
fault: the mountains have split apart and deep waters lie between high cliffs. The river
is small, and often widens into lakes with dense forests on the sides - but it has a
steady flow and is passable throughout the paddling season. Spectacular waterfalls need to
be bypassed via the ancient portages (this route has been in use by Canada's First Nations
for hundreds and probably thousands of years) and the handful of rapids may be paddled at
high water or the boats may be lined and walked down the rock-strewn shallows.
Some of the camps sites are noted as traditional stopping places of
the voyageurs (at the Portage de la Prairie, CAMP 1 on the map above,and at Elm Point -
maybe even at the place above Campion Rapids, CAMP 2). No, we did not walk up towards the
nice museum of Champlain Park - it's a long walk from the water and we had expected that
our visitors would go there there while we had left them during our Ottawa absence. They
were happy to explore via canoe, one day moving upstream and the next down from the
Campion Rapids.
The shore in Mattawa village offered a picnic table (but no washrooms)
for our lunch stop, and before we proceeded, we were warned by locals that the upcoming
railway bridge over the Ottawa River just below the forks has powerful eddy currents when
the water is high - for us it was a pretty harmless stretch since the river was at summer
water levels.
It became a long day's paddle until we discovered
generous camping at the mouth of the Edwards River (CAMP 3). Just like at Elm Point on the
Mattawa, the river has pushed out a large level area that probably was used by groups of
voyageurs, but we found that previous visitors had made "improvements" that we
didn't appreciate and thus we stayed on the smaller area located a hundred feet upstream
from the major camp area. It was a nice site, big enough for two tents, and with the added
benefit of a clear rushing brook that runs 50ft behind the tents.
The next morning we resolved to paddle fewer hours to keep everyone happy -
and it was a good decision since a front with heavy thunderstorms moved in during the
early evening, and we had arrived at CAMP 4 early enough to cook and eat dinner before the
skies opened up with heavy rain. That camp site is at the landing of an old logging
operation, and much of the area is covered with poison ivy. We were careful where we put
the tents, marking off "safe" areas with twigs, and if we had needed a tarp, we
would have had to look for a place inside the sloping forest. And we did have a good
sleep...
We had originally expected to paddle to at least Driftwood Park, but
we now realized that it would make us paddle longer days than our little group wanted to
do. But the endpoint of our trip was really flexible and so was the arrangement of the
shuttle pick-up. So, the next morning we had two more nights to go, and so we decided that
Deux Riviers would be a good finish for our trip. We did not know what to expect in this
"village", and first checked out the Hill Top Camp that Kevin C has described in
his book as the "lap of luxury" - tongue in cheek, as we discovered. There is
little there of interest, and we had hoped for a store, associated with a camp ground -
but a fellow I talked to directed us instead to the corner store beside the highway, a km
downstream. We paddled on and got out there - only to discover it had closed its doors as
well. But a friendly woman there offered us two garbage bags that we intended to
waterproof a leaking dry bag. Thanks - Northern Hospitality is alive and well, even beside
the TransCanada Highway!
Just a bit further is Antlers Campground, well-run and in a nice
setting, not a bad place for anyone. Once we got into "puttering around" mode,
we figured we talk to some of the folks there and so we did. We ended up in their
waterside "pavilion", drinking coffee and enjoying a good talk. Did I mention
Northern Hospitality? OK, I did and this was another example.
Eventually we moved on, with a bit more info on camp sites, and the
idea to paddle down river, camp for two night and then to return to Deux Rivieres for the
pick-up. Nice spots for lunching along the next few kms, but nothing suitable until we
came to CAMP 5, al long sloping rock with two small spots high up. It was ideal for us:
picturesque, big enough and cozy, and a good place to put up the tarp for the kitchen.
The next day, we stayed put. In the morning three of us paddled across the
river (a large lake, really) and explored the creek that tumbled noisily over the rocks,
while Peggy stayed behind to read. After lunch, Herbert and Dorothee took the canoe and
explore down-river on their own. They came back reporting another nice campsite on
river-left and confirming the beauty of the area. But the day was spent just enjoying
nature. It is that sort of heaven that keeps calling us back north every summer...
The last day had us paddle back to Deux Rivieres, call the shuttle and
just wait for them to arrive. Back at the outfitters, the cars were waiting faithfully to
take us back to "civilization", but not before we had our trip celebration at
Myrt's Diner. It had been a great trip!
Pictures: by Peggy, Dorothee, Kailey, and Herbert
Logistics and general travel hints:
- Shuttle services and canoe rentals: Algonquin North provided the shuttle service and
parked our cars while on the river. They are a friendly family business, the grown-up sons
are seriously into canoeing, and we got excellent service. If you think the shuttle cost
is a bit high, just consider the annual cost of two pickup trucks and maybe other vehicles
needed to keep this business going. I recommend them strongly.
- Supplies along the way: Mattawa would allow you to shop (I didn't
verify this), but Deux Rivieres was a bust. The former town looks significant on the map,
and it once held several hundred people. During the 1950's, it was flooded by the new dam
at Rapides des Joachims and has been getting smaller and smaller since. A few houses
remain, but the store has closed, the Hilltop Cottages (a place that Kevin Callan mentions
as an overnight stay) have seen better days, and only Antler's Fishing Lodge is very much alive
as a public camp ground.
- Restaurants for your pre trip lunch or the final trip's dinner: A good
restaurant in Mattawa was Myrt's, on Highway 17 in
town. We ate there on Sunday morning before heading out towards Ottawa - the place was
full with local folks and French was the language that dominated the room, the breakfast
was good and reasonably priced, and such good impression was maintained during two more
visits later. It's an excellent place to celebrate when you have finished your trip...!
- Portages: From Pimisi Bay down to Champlain Park, you have to handle
about 5 portages - some of which you can avoid by running or wading. In Mattawa is the
Hurdman dam with a 300m portage - and then no more as you paddle down the Ottawa to Deux
Rivieres. Past that point, the next one is at Rapides des Joachims, with a 2.5km carry -
ouch! Kevin Callan's book "..." is the latest publication with descriptions, an
older book by Reid and Grant "Canoeing Ontario Rivers" has a bit more background
on the special natural features there. That latter book is out of print and you may have
to try your local library for a copy.
- Nature beside the river is wonderfully intact, especially on the Quebec
side. But the TransCanada Highway runs within a few kms of the river, and on might hear
the noise of the trucks. On nights with air moving from the south, it was quite
noticeable. Poison ivy is encountered frequently where logging has broken the forest
canopy and especially at sites where horses were once used. Know how to recognize it and
stay clear...
- Camp sites are a bit rare, typically small and some of the advice I got
on where sites would be did not pan out: the "camp sites" turned out to be
fishermen's lunch spots, without an even or level site suitable to pitch a single tent.
Adopt a strategy to camp early in the day if you find a site and thus avoid having to
paddle into the evening as the planned site turned out to be non-existent.
- Further information:
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