These people created the story of my trip across Patagonia;
everything else are just stage props.
Cover of book #2 of my Diary
I need your help to get pictures of all the folks in this
story. If you know someone whose picture is missing, please
put me in touch with them
Wiercx, a free-lance reporter and cyclist from Holland whose bike had the same
tire size as mine. Here is some of the good advice he gave: never cycle faster than 15
km/hr on Patagonia's gravel roads. In hindsight, the only two flat tires that I did get on
this trip were both the consequence of going too fast...
Anya, a visitor from Germany to
Ushuaia, who cared that I, as a newly arrived gringo, would not get into trouble, who
translated Spanish for me and gave me good advice about the National park there.
a Chilena who worked in Ushuaia
and I don't even know her name. She gave me some insights into the plights of the guest
- Gustavo Groh, a photographer in Ushuaia. He told
me about the canoe races in Rio Grande and offered help if I needed it.
the folks at Estancia Viamonte who
let me camp there and gave me a few glimpses into life at a sheepfarm
Ambrosio Lipovec, on temporary assignment to the Silesian Mission outside Rio
Grande. Not only did he offer the museum's rare books for me to read, but he made sure I
was fed and had a place to sleep
- an unknown driver of a pickup truck from Rio
Grande who stopped and gave me a 50 km lift, against the wind
- Marcela Vera in Pobl. Williams, a waitress at the
border restaurant. The memory of her smile gave me something pleasant to think of while I
struggled against the worst wind of this trip.
- the owner of an estancia near Onaisin who allowed
me to stay in the bunk house and gave me a tour of the farm
- Marcelo Siebald, the manager of the hotel Los
Flamencos in Porvenir. He combines true helpfulness with sound business sense and was not
shy to reveal insights into life in Chile.
- Manuel and his wife who run the hostel by the same
name on O'Higgins 646, in Punto Arenas. They treated me no different than the many other
guests: i.e. with consideration, fairness and a touch of love...
- Carlos, another guest, at Hosteria Manuel. He
retired from the Chilean Navy and I hope he has found the work that he was looking for.
- Werner and Cecilia Ruf-Chaura, owners of Casa
Cecilia. I hope they can keep their style of hospitality for generations of trekkers to
- Alec, a guide, from California. He pointed out the
existence of the "new road". It was a much more interesting access to the park,
and the experience that I gained there made me decide to take the boat to get a thousand
km further north rather than to cycle across the land.
- a man from Santiago who acted as translator with
the administrative staff at the Torres del Paine Park. I hope his sore feet have healed by
the cook at an estancia along the
"new road". May his puppies give him enjoyment forever...
the social worker who stopped his
pickup near Cerro Castillo to give me a much needed lift
Kiss Jozsef Csaba, who will soon
be leading a climbing expedition to the Vinson Massif in the Antarctica
- Ron Phillips a cyclist from Ottawa. His advice was
good and made me more confident with my own bicycle
Fernanda Ortega, a
music student from Santiago who took the boat excursion to the glaciers with her mother. I
admire her confidence and optimism!
- Anna from the UK, about to start a new job when
she returned. Good luck in London!
- the park attendants at the Cueva del Milodon, who
so desperately need a break in their boring job
- the manager at the post office in Puerto Natales
who showed me what service can be like when he re-packed my parcels so I
would save postage
- the woman in Bahia Mansa who invited me in, for a cup of
- the captain and officers of the Puerto Eden who
restricted the curiosity of us passengers only when it would have compromised safety
- the cook of the Puerto Eden who managed to give me
the only bout with diarrhea on my whole trip
- Marcelo, the ship's entertainment man who managed
to turn mere transportation into a 3-day party
- Mike Woodman, a cyclist from England. He told me
that the friendliest people he's come across on his world-wide travels were the folks of
the north-west USA...
- fellow travelers of the Puerto Eden: Janne Haug from Oslo,
Anne König, Jürg Minger and Sabine Wohler from Bern, Klaus Olsen and Cecilia Murphy just
returning from several years in Russia, and Claudia Zimmermann from Switzerland,
all willing to share their experiences. May their travels have continued in happiness.
- Ken and Alison Clarke, an adventuresome couple from
Scotland. We first met on the Puerto Eden and then, as chance would have it, kept running
into each other further along the trip.
- Diane Trybul and Martha Costley in Puerto Montt,
helping me to get initial bearings in this town
- Gérman Castro, owner of Academía Siglo XXI, who
taught me some basics of the Spanish language and Chilean culture
- Sr. Altmann, whose wife owns the hostel and whose
housekeeper does most of the work there. He gave me some insights into the culture of the
many descendents of the original German settlers in the Llanquihue Province
- the man who took a photo of me on the ferry to
Chiloe and handed me the print three days later when he saw me by chance in a Dalcahue
- the manager of a research oyster farm near Quemchi
who interrupted his work and took me around the facility just because I asked...
- the friendly couple of the Almuerzo near Linao who
extended hospitality without bounds.
- the woman that owns the hosteria in Linao. A smile
for this single traveler got him out of the dumps...
- Laura, whom I encountered twice: once in Dalcahue
and then in Castro. Each time, she was sitting on a bench in the main square, writing her
diary. I am thankful for her company on the trip to Cucao.
Bernardo Eggers, owner of the Automuseum Moncopulli. With his family and a
Aiyana Gregori and Ivan Klocker of
Puerto Montt. He stopped his huge truck to offer me a lift,and we became friends in the
weeks to follow.
- Jose Klocker and family, owners of the hospedaje,
on Antonio Varas #1113, in Puerto Montt. Thanks for sharing the family's Chilean ancestral
- Sr. González, of Frutillar. Even though I did not
take him up on his offer for a lift in his station wagon, I appreciate the thought
Hölck, the owner of the "Hexe" restaurant. She found the time to
talk about life in Chile...
- the folks at the Ingecol site in Anticura, taking
good care of me...
- the owner of the bicycle shop on Av. Valdivia, around number 4000, in Buenos
Aires. She had all reason to charge me for the bicycle packing box, but didn't.
Rink and Werner Hölzl whom I met in Bariloche. It was good to travel in your
Last not least, back home in Toronto, I owe to:
the folks from "Bikes on Wheels", who offered their best
advice to get my bike ready and they did the work. They are a good bunch and if you need
work done, they are 309 Augusta St., near College and Spadina Avenue (966-2453)
my sons: Ed, who gave me advice on the bike, and Robert who would have
loved to come along if it wouldn't have been for his job. Robert also owns and runs the
yip.org server where the PATAGONIA98 web pages and their extensive graphics reside. I've
been very happy with the reliable availability and good throughput of this server.
Peggy, my partner, who put up with my quirks and made do without my
usual contributions to the household, including the ugly snow shoveling outside our
Toronto home during the months of February and March
Many Thanks to All of You!
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